A Geneva bio wine heads the white assemblages list
Geneva's wines, red and white, have never seemed impressive. So sometimes I've been agreeably surprised by what the vineyards of the Aare can produce. And a Genevois white from Coop for CHF10.50 — bio as well — was the top-rated Swiss white assemblages for 2014-2015 in the tests by the French-Swiss consumer magazine Bon à Savoir in February 2017.
The Comte de Genève from Satigny only received a middling "good" rating: 14.7 out of 20, with 14-15.9 part of the "good" scale. But it was half a point ahead of its nearest competitor, the CHF19.95 Blanche Cuvé of Jean-René Germanier of Vétroz.
This dry wine is an assemblage from just two classic grapes: chasselas and chardonnay. "Very elegant and well balanced," said Oenology professor René Roger of the Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne.
The panel still recommends drinking the Comte de Genève soon after buying. None of the wines tested were below par. The lowest rating was 13.0, at the top end of the satisfactory range. But none stood a long way ahead of the others.
In his article, Yves-Noêl Grin protests rightly that you will have a hard time finding a pinot gris or Valais equivalent the Malvoisie that matches your taste for sweetness or dryness. I've been caught out a number of times.
Producers rarely indicate the sugar content of their wines, he points out. Champagne producers have seven grades to indicate sweetness, he notes. In Switzerland, the Vétroz producers lead the way by putting an ascending number of bees on the labels of their much-loved Amigne to indicate the sweetness.
Grin also remarks that only three of the 12 told you on the label what grape varieties they had mixed together.